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I may have gotten beyond the tourist stage in Peru, but I’m still missing many of the answers.

The authors writing in these pages—Peruvians and Peruvianists—understand far more.

I asked a woman I’d met if the soldiers inspired fear nowadays.

She shrugged her shoulders and said, “They’re ours.” I left Ayacucho with its green mountains wondering about transformations, about the legacies of the past and the durability of the economic future.

At the Ayacucho airport, a floor-to-ceiling retablo—a box structure filled with intricate carved figures—greeted me. I was totally unprepared for its stunning intricacy, although I’d seen many retablos in small, portable box form.

I was even less prepared for the view of the dazzling green mountains and unexpectedly blue sky (I was lucky—Ayacucho is known for rain).I emerged from the meeting and walked past the cellphone and video shops. A very good classical group was playing just outside the cathedral—a rehearsal, I was told.Restaurants were filled and the town was preparing for carnival.Transportation was lacking to get to the centers to give DNA samples.And if transportation were to be provided, who would take care of the kids? Why couldn’t mobile centers be established for market days?On a visit to the Museum of Memory, I asked to be put in contact with the local president of the Association of Relatives of the Kidnapped, Detained and Disappeared.

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